Day 176 - Turkish caryatid from a small Swiss castle


September 14, 2019

Gallery 505 is the "rich room" or "best room," used for the reception  of important guests, from a "schlossli" (little castle) in Flims, Switzerland. Acquired by the Met in 1906, it may have seemed like a good find then, but I wonder whether the museum would make the same purchase now. The room, whose walls and impressive ceiling  are completely paneled in dark woods except for four lead-paned windows with stained glass insets, is so dark that it doesn't invite close viewing, or lingering.

Built around 1682-1684 and measuring about 20 or 25 feet on a side, the room seems to combine local with more cosmopolitan decorative elements. Among the latter is a very large and showy faience stove painted with scenes from the Bible (I recognize the binding of Isaac), images of saints, and ornamental masks and fruits. Today's object is a caryatid, perhaps 24 inches tall, whose turban (not to mention the explanatory sign) identifies him as a Turk. The sign goes on to note that the figure reflects the fear of a Turkish invasion that was widespread in central Europe at the time. But at least here, the figure is put to use holding up the ceiling of a good and prosperous Christian home. The carving appears quite "folkish" to me: The head seems disproportionately large, the torso and arms attenuated - not at all reflective of Renaissance classicism. Other caryatids are nude or clothed in European dress and are similarly proportioned.

Was the room just as dim in its original home? It's the least pleasurable viewing experience I've had so far.

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